The
French call it the "gout de terroir" or the "taste of the earth" -- the special
quality of a wine which is imparted by the land from which it was produced. It
is the intangible element that sets one wine apart from another and makes some
vineyards legendary. This concept became the basis for the French system of appellation
controllee, which defines specific growing regions in order to control the quality
of the wine. The American appellation program, administered by the Federal government,
finds its origins in the French system but expands the concept by recognizing
the importance of regional climates as well as soil types.